Greyhounds, because of their low body fat and fast metabolism, are especially sensitive to insecticides and other substances. The substances to watch out for are:

• Flea & Tick Products - " DO NOT USE FLEA COLLARS." Flea collars contain chemicals, which go directly into a greyhound’s blood stream and can cause serious health problems and possibly death.

• Lawn Chemicals - May be fatal to greyhounds. Do not allow your greyhound to walk on any chemically treated areas. Lawn services such as Chemlawn, Lawn Doctor, etc. are required to mark treated areas with yellow flags. If you use lawn chemicals please make us aware of this.
• Chocolate - Chocolate contains theobromine, a substance that is toxic to dogs. Chocolate should be kept out of reach at all times.
• Paints - Exposure to oil base paints can cause a variety of reactions in your dog. If you are painting your home it is best to arrange to safely have your greyhound elsewhere. If this is not possible the dog(s) should be put in a safe and well ventilated area of the house away from the fumes.
• Household Chemicals - Many harsh detergents and chemicals are used in connection with house cleaning and home remodeling. For example, if you use the continuos cleaning type of toilet chemicals like Tide-E-Bowl, make sure the toilet seat is kept down.

• Ears - Your greyhound’s ears should be cleaned every week. You should use cotton balls and a mild ear cleaning solution as recommended by your veterinarian. Your veterinarian can also show you the proper way to clean your greyhound’s ears.
• Nails - Your greyhound will need to have its nails cut every week. This may vary with the amount of exercise your greyhound is getting and how much natural wear their nails get. Your greyhound’s nails should be kept trimmed short enough so that they don’t touch the floor when the dog is standing on a hard surface. Your veterinarian or a NJ GAP volunteer can show you how to properly cut your greyhound’s nails.
• Brushing - You should also brush your greyhound once a week or more frequently if you desire. Use a shedding blade, hounds glove or a rubber curry comb. You can also use a flea comb. These items really help to pull out the dead undercoat and reduce any shedding.
• Teeth - Greyhounds do not mind having their teeth brushed and we do recommend that you do this every week. There are dog dental care kits. They contain a dog tooth brush and a non foaming dog toothpaste. Human toothpaste foams too much.
• Bathing - Bathing your greyhound depends on how dirty they get and if you have allergies. Please see the section on Insecticides for the proper flea/tick shampoo to purchase.

Note: Many greyhounds become very relaxed when getting bathed and may lean on you and may even fall over, so please make sure you have a firm grip on your dog during bathing.

• Tick Collars - A PREVENTIC collar may be used on your greyhound. This collar repels and kills ticks only. The chemical on this collar is not absorbed into the skin or bloodstream, it only disperses over the coat. You can purchase this collar by mail order or from your veterinarian.

• Bathe - Bathe your greyhound once every 2 weeks.
• Groom - Groom your greyhound twice a week. If possible, have the person in the household with no allergy problems do all the grooming. If possible groom outdoors.
• Sleeping - Initially have your greyhound sleep in another room with a member of the family who is not allergic.
• Allerpet - Use Allerpet-D for dogs as directed.
• Color - Consider a darker colored tight haired greyhound since they seem to be better for people with allergies.
• Timing - Don’t get your greyhound when your allergy sensitivities are at their peak.
• Bedding - Use a thick blanket or quilt as your greyhound’s bedding and wash it every week.
• Couching - Don’t allow your greyhound up on the furniture.
• Have Patience - The worst time is the first two weeks. Usually after 2 months even the most severe reactions settle down.

All of the above advice is for the initial adjustment phase. Once the allergic reaction settles down you may want to consider relaxing some of the above precautions gradually.

3.51 "What Heat?"

The weather today was absolutely perfect! The sun was shining, temperatures were in the low 80’s and humidity was low. Do not let today’s beautiful weather fool you, the ‘dog days of summer’ are upon us. When the temperature and humidity are high, we hear warnings on the radio to minimize the time we stay outdoors, keep cool, check on elderly or sickly neighbors, friends and relatives. These warnings should also alert us to take special precautions with our greyhounds. If it’s too hot for you to be outside for long periods of time, it’s definitely too hot for them. Take short walks in the early morning or late evening. If you have to walk your dog during the day, stick to short potty walks.

What about other days when there are no heat warnings? You should still be aware of the temperature and humidity, and be alert to any signs of heat distress in your dog. If you live in a house without air-conditioning, and have the windows open with fans running, and your dog is laying around panting, it’s too hot to go outside for more than a very short walk.

Some dogs are more sensitive to the sun. Black greyhounds will feel the heat more than those with lighter colored coats. Greyhounds can also get sunburned. They have very short, thin coats, and as we all know, some of them have bald butts!

Many greyhounds enjoy cooling off by walking or laying in a shallow pool of water. One of our greyhounds loves her hard plastic kiddy pool. She takes a walk through it every time she goes out into the yard.

Be aware of the early signs of heat stroke and take quick action. The first signs are excessive panting, weakness, inability to stand, dilated pupils and a blank expression. Immediately get the dog into a cool area, soak towels in cold water, and wrap these around the dog. If possible, put about six inches of cold water in the bath tub, stand the dog in the cold water and pour cold water over it’s entire body. If, after approximately 5-10 minutes, you don’t see a change for the better, get the dog to the veterinarian immediately.

Dogs can progress from mild heat stroke to severe quickly. If you see blood spots on the gums and what looks like bruising on the inside of the thighs, get to the veterinarian’s immediately! Do not continue and try to treat the dog. Grab a wet towel to wrap the dog in if it’s available and get moving!

Have an enjoyable and safe summer. Just be aware of changes you see in your dog. If the heat seems to be bothering him/her, (for example, heavy panting) get them out of the heat and cool them down. Restrict their outdoor activities. If you find yourself in a situation

where you think your dog is in danger of heat stroke, take immediate action! Heat stroke can cause brain damage and even death.

If, while you’re reading this, you do not know the name, location and phone number of the nearest veterinary emergency facility, now is a good time to gather this information and keep it by your phone. In our house, emergencies never occur during our veterinarian’s regular office hours!

3.6 Lure Coursing

Now that it’s spring we all want to get out of the house and do things with our dog. One thing that comes to mind is "Lure Coursing". Lure coursing is a sport in which a dog will chase a plastic bag in an open field. The bag is tied to a string that is pulled across the field with the aid of a motor and pulleys. This simulates the conditions that greyhounds were originally bred for. Lure coursing can be fun, but it can also be dangerous if you are not careful.

The first thing you need to do to prepare for lure coursing is to assess the condition of your dog. Greyhounds, being couch potatoes, need to be fit prior to running. The typical course that your greyhound is expected to run is between 600 - 1,500 yards. This can be quite a demand on a dog that has not had a lot of previous exercise. If you cannot see 3-5 of your greyhound’s ribs, he/she is probably overweight and you should consider not running your dog. The other things to remember are:

The following guidelines are for first time runners:

Remember lures can be very exciting. Expect your dog to be jumping/lurching at the sight of it. Consider muzzling your dog (it saves on leashes being chewed)

It is extremely important to review the course layout and field conditions prior to running.

Courses are designed to optimize the runs of various sight hounds. A course with sharp points (like a star) is great for an Afghan Hound but can cause a greyhound to get hurt. The following are things to look for:

The ideal conditions for coursing are 50 to 70 degree days with low humidity. The best time to course your dog is usually in the morning. If the temperature gets above 75 degrees do not course your dog. If it is a humid day, do not course your dog if its above 70 degrees. Also avoid a slick course due to a recent/current rain.

Always bring a first aid kit with you when you go coursing. Hopefully you will never use it. The kit should contain surgical tape, gauze, nail cutter, antiseptic and a towel.

The most common injuries are broken nails and heat prostration. Broken nails need to be trimmed quickly to reduce any pain (nail cutters). Wetting the towel and placing it on the dog treats heat prostration. The wetter the better. If a lake is nearby go for it. Also, know of a local veterinarian on call - just in case.

After your dog’s run follow these simple rules:

Winter - In a crate in the sun (unless the dog is showing signs of being overheated)

Hopefully, the above does not scare you away from lure coursing. It can be fun, but if you are not careful it can be dangerous.

Below is a general outline for all pets. Please keep in mind that a NJ GAP dog should go back to the organization for placement.

Those of us who are pet owners will often go to great lengths to comfort and care for these family members during our lifetime. Most of us are also very much aware of the importance of estate planning for our loved ones after we die. Unfortunately, we for get that pets are loved ones too, and often provisions are not made for their care after our death.

Why a will?

In the eyes of the law, in most states, animals are considered personal property and are treated as if they are a piece of jewelry or an article of clothing. If no will exists, the animal goes to the heir of the estate. If no heir exists or if the heir does not want your animal, he/she will go to a humane group, an animal shelter or be euthanized.

Decision

The first decision you must make is to decide on whether your loved one(s) should be adopted into a new home or euthanized. Each situation must be evaluated on its own merits. Determine if your pet is adoptable and can survive a transfer.

Adoption

Once you decide adoption is the best option, find an individual or adoption agency to provide a home for your pet(s). Things to look for in adoption situation are:

What about euthanasia?

Euthanasia should only be considered when it is the humane solution. If your pet would experience great hardship in adapting to a new home euthanasia may be more humane. If the decision is euthanasia, specify a veterinarian and discuss the procedure. Also, get his/her recommendation on a final resting place. Some options are pet cemeteries, cremation, or your pet can be buried with you.

Financial Considerations

In either option there are expenses that are incurred and provisions should be made in the will. Four options are:

Your executor, identified individual, or adoption agency can control the financial option you select. Which is the best is based upon your situation. Discussions with a lawyer are strongly recommended.

Summary

The Essentials of Estate Planning For Your Pet(s):

Help Your Greyhound Survive A Disaster

Thanks to modern weather forecasting technology, we are rarely surprised by natural disasters such as flash floods, hurricanes or blizzards. Other natural disasters₁ such as forest fires, and man-made problems, such as gas explosions and leaking tank cars, arrive with little, if any, warning. By developing a disaster action plan for yourselves and your greyhounds, you can improve the chances that all of you have to make it through a disaster safely.

Steps you can take include.

• Asking a dependable friend or relative who lives some distance away if you and your greyhounds can stay with them during an emergency;

• Finding motels some distance from your area to which you and your greyhounds can go in the event of an evacuation. Be sure to ask if there are any restrictions on size and number of greyhounds allowed.

• Greyhound license and ID tags;
• Proper size metal or plastic crate;
• Leashes; Non-spill water and food bowls;
• Water in sanitized non-breakable containers;
• Dried food;
• Special medications; plastic bags and/or paper towels.

• Do not leave your greyhounds at home when you evacuate

Once the all-clear has sounded and you and your greyhounds return to your home, be CAREFUL about allowing your greyhounds outdoors unattended and off-leash. The disaster may have altered your fencing and gates. Greyhound could easily get out and become lost.

In addition downed electric lines, fallen trees and other debris, and contaminated water could present real dangers to your greyhound.